Calafate: My Favorite Spot for Horse Riding

by Majo

 

A little bit of background

Back in 2009, when I had just finished uni, I was a bit lost in life. I had a degree in Tourism – I´ve always loved travelling and adventure – but I wasn’t sure what to do with it. That was the moment when I heard the first call of The Land of Glaciers.

 

I saw a job offer inquiring about a Horse Riding guide at an estancia located 20 km away from town and on the way to Perito Moreno Glacier. I didn’t know what to expect, but my gut told me that was the right decision to make. I mean, I loved horses and knew how to speak English -and those were the two main requirements, ¿what could go wrong?

 

This turned out to be one of the most important decisions of my life. It was definitely my point of inflexion because although I’d always been around horses, I´d never imagined I could make a living out of my passion.

 

Some time later my friend and colleague, Cami, joined me in Calafate. We both worked as horse ride guides and in our free days we used to get on our cherished horses and go out to explore new roads. Some of the rides we now offer in Southern Patagonia were discovered by us during those times.

 

A special mention should go to Marcos, the owner of this magical ranch. He is a big fan of horses and an amazing host. The place is what it is because of him. Of course, he owns the best horses, which are only ridden by him or selected few. Marcos loves adrenaline. When riding with him, you better have a fast horse, unless you want to end up eating dust the whole way.

About Calafate & South Patagonia

One word for this area of Southern Patagonia: IMMENSITY. This is the land of the most beautiful skies and moons; the land of the brave; of those who need to run free and wild as horses; the land of sheep and mountain lions. It is the promised land for those who love riding without a map and are keen for adventure, for those who like galloping in wide open spaces.

 

 

Calafate is a small town located in the province of Santa Cruz. The town is known for its proximity to the Perito Moreno Glacier – without a doubt, the main star of Patagonia – but apart from that, people don’t know much about this area. At first sight, it seems that there is not much to see. The town is located by the shore of the Argentinean Lake, the biggest lake in the country (and one of the biggest in South America), and surrounded by the steppe. Further away you can see the Andes Mountains and the ice fields.

 

The Patagonian Steppe is kind of a huge desert. It is painted in yellow, ochre, light green and brown. All of these colours come together in contrast with the turquoise waters of the lake. It doesn’t have much vegetation, but the few plants it does have are very useful for animals as shelter from the cold weather and wind. This vegetation also serves the land, by helping it to attach the soil and sand to the floor. Believe me, when the Patagonian wind blows, you’d better find refuge between the bushes of Mata Negra and Calafates (both native plants).

 

As it rains around 300 mm per year, it is a very dry biome and not productive at, all except for breeding sheep. A long time ago, when wool used to be called the “white gold”, some brave adventurers (mostly Welsh, Irish, English and Germans) came from cold and wet areas across the ocean and decided to settle in south Patagonian lands because they found out that it was a good place to breed merino sheep. This kind of sheep has the finest wool in the world.

 

Anyway, long story short, to be able to have a productive business they needed to have huge herds of sheep, and to be able to feed them, farmers needed at least 50.000 hectares. So in Southern Patagonia, you can find estancias that are the size of a big city; which is why there we can ride as far as we want.

Returning to the Dreamland

I remember that when I was a horse ride guide, I used to stop by the Calafate plant, take a fruit, and offer it saying, “you have to try the fruit, because according to the legends, whoever tries the Calafate fruit, will always return.” I didn’t actually think the legend was true at the time, but let me tell you, I’ve now returned, against all odds, after exactly 10 years, when I most needed it.

 

I’ve had a rough year and found myself a little bit lost again – just the same as when I arrived for the first time. I felt disconnected from myself and my passion. I mean, I’m always riding, I have my horses and do jumping, but lately, I was just riding for one hour to exercise my horse, and that was it. Of course, with Equus Argentina, we go for rides with our clients quite often, but the last time we did a long ride together was in March, when we did the Horse Riding and Cattle Herding in Patagonia ; and the Horse Riding in Carlos Keen, Buenos Aires

 

So, during the last part of the year -those months when everything seems to be quicker, and usually everyone is stressed-, I felt the need to breathe the free fresh air of Patagonia. I heard the voice of the Patagonian wind call my name, inviting me to return and heal myself. And that’s what I did. Can’t find enough words to describe what it was like going back after so many years. Suffice it to say that the moment I landed in Calafate I already felt at home.

 

Marcos picked me up at the airport and took me directly to the estancia. First thing I did was to see my old Australian Kelpie dog which I had to leave back when I left in 2014. He still recognized me. Afterwards, I went to see the horses I used to ride, and not only them, but also those that were foals when I left. This was the most special moment, because I had named them and used to dream about riding them, and now they were all grown-up and ready to ride. One of them was Flicka. It used to be black and now it’s gray. The other one is Muñeca, a black and white horse. Her mother was Tobiana, she used to be one of my favourite horses. I had only 8 days to enjoy, so I’d made a plan to be able to ride all of my old and new horses.

 

Grownup Flicka

 

During these last years, Marcos bought new horses. There was a red one that turned out to be one of my new beloved horses. The estancia was full of guests, and they needed a hand with the rides. Of course I accepted the challenge. Going back and doing what I liked most wasn’t a sacrifice! I was so happy to take guests to ride in my favorite place in the world. I took with me non experienced riders as well as good riders. We did 2 hour rides, as well as whole day rides. And after each ride, I ended up drinking a good rose or white wine at the restaurant of the estancia enjoying the amazing views of the sunset. I made many new friends.

 

 

With my new friend Alex & Izzy and Marcos – having wine after an amazing ride!

 

Probably the most special moment was going for a ride by myself with Pajarito, a light brown horse mixed between criollo and quarter horse. First, we headed to the river, crossed it, and then kept on moving towards the lake and the mountain. Our aim: Ride to the Great Sand Dunes – definitely one of the best hidden spots of Calafate. We went out at 5 and we returned at 9 pm. It was a rough ride, the wind was very strong, but I could really hear its voice whispering in my ear, welcoming me back to Patagonia. And in that precise moment, when I was all alone in the mountain with my horse and just the noise of the wind, was when I found myself again.

I realized what I like most about riding: the freedom I feel. There is no other moment when I feel as free as when I’m riding without a road to follow or a limit of time. In that moment all my worries vanished, and an immense feeling of love embraced me. I have forgotten how it felt to be in peace with yourself and in love in the present moment.

 

While returning back to the estancia I stopped by a Calafate plant and took one of its fruits; a tiny violet and blue ball, similar to a blueberry, and ate it. It tasted like Patagonia. The legend tells the story about an Indian princess of the Tehuelche tribe that falls in love with another member of a different tribe. To avoid this marriage, the chief of the tribe asked a chaman to put a spell and turn her into a plant. That’s how the Calafate plant was borned: a plant with golden flowers and a tasty fruit. Her lover wandered around the huge patagonian steppe for a long time till the nature spirits turned him into a bird to make his search easier. That’s how he found the Calafate plant, tasted its fruit and realized this was his beloved princess. That is why they said that once you taste from the Calafate plant you will always come back because you’ll be forever in love with Patagonia.

 

Joint us on our Calafate adventure 2024: equusargentina@gmail.com